1991 Bridgestone MB-4 mountain bike orginally stocked at 27.5 painful pounds. Some people consider the Bridgestone mountain bikes the greatest mountain bikes in the world, and I'd have
to agree with them to a certain degree. The designers didn't bow to fad by adding technical or shiny gears designed to attract new customers.
In their 1992 catalog, Bridgestone boldly said their US bike lineup does not include something for everyone. Unfortunately, Bridgestone left the USA mountain bike market after 1994, but they do still produce practical bicycles in Japan, where
the company originated.
For a time, I wanted to get a second-hand MB-1, maybe because it was more "prestigous," but looking back, the 1991 MB-4 frame weighs only 8 ounces more than the 1991 MB-1 (frame to frame comparison, no forks), but the MB-4 has rear
braze-ons (that probably accounts for at least 2 to 4 ounces of the 8 ounces right there) for a rear rack, and the 1991 MB-4's tubes are also lugged (some MB-4 models are not lugged). With all that steel on there, this wasn't just a bike, it was a tank. I have less interest in the MB-0 because the tubes are welded together. I've done all the maintenance on this bike ever since
I took it in once for a free tune-up within the first year of purchase. I've rebuilt the wheels on the fly (while touring). The only
problems I've had is removing the freewheel (never able to), but it's much easier to remove the cogs with two chainwhips. (If you replace the chain and your favorite cog starts to slip, just take the cogs apart and reinsert backwards.)
If you want to do maintenance on your own bicycle, try the Park Tool how-to web site.
Today, the 1991 MB-4 is still my regular ride, and I currently own two 18" models.
A spare tire tube is wrapped on the frame under the seat. The cable lock will be wrapped at the front of the frame under the handle bars. Also, at the front, a velcro strap
will attach the solar power battery charger.
A Specialized saddle bag will hold bicycle tool, glueless tire patch kit, chain-link tool, tube of lithium grease, spare lock key, plastic tire remover, bottle of teflon chain lube, and 10/11mm wrench.
At the bottom of the frame, there are 2 spare spokes secured with duck tape.
Upgrades: ($250 later with mostly used parts, the 1991 MB-4 weighs about 22.5 lbs including Tyvek homemade tire liners and bar ends on the bathroom scale; this weighs approximately 2 lbs less than the stock 1991 MB-1). Pictures of bike.
Other Bicycles
1992 Trek 990
1991 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
1990 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
Includes chain and mini-pedal tools. The main reason I bought it was because of a 30% discount, but it is a great tool. Like duck tape, it's one of those must have items when travelling.
Shimano M324 pedal has a platform on one side and clip system on the other. I prefer platform/toe clips because I don't pull up on the pedal, and I like the freedom of loose feet on tour. And yes,
you can pedal using that "dragging" motion with platform pedals, but not as natural with SPD shoes. You just can't pull up with bare platform pedals.
Nashbar (Rodeo) and Performance (Campus) both have a model with similiar design at half the price. The clip system is removable from the pedals. (I switched to the Rodeo after returning home, and I feel the Rodeo is superior
than the M324 because it has that classic look, lighter, a wider surface area, cheaper, and can be removed with a regular wrench; however, the clip system is another story because some people complain about the Rodeo's clips not being above the pedal platform enough so engaging
the clips can be troublesome at times, which I also found to be true- probably depends on the design of the bottom of the shoe.) Filing down the 3 teeth in front of the pedals solves the problem, but the spd system is still fairly cheap-looking.
Reflecting back, it was a mistake to use the M324 because they were so heavy. The next time I'll probably use pure lightweight platform pedals such as the Forte Comp.
When installing pedals, make sure to add some grease to the threads and don't overtighten. It's extremely difficult to remove an overtightened pedal with a hex wrench (when a pedal wrench is unavailable)!
Review of the M324 pedals.Review of the Rodeo pedals.Review of the Forte/Performace Campus pedals.
Profile plastic water bottle cage.
Two 24-oz insulated Polar water bottle. Supposedly, it will keep water cooler twice as long over uninsulated bottles. One nice features is the blue tip is removable for cleaning. Along with the bottle
I will also have the 16 oz platypus collapsible bottle. These are a little heavy and definitely good for recreational riding, but I don't think I will carry them for touring in the future. Many riders
say that on hot days, they'll likely drink the water in their bottles before it even gets hot.
I really like the adjustment feature of the inexpensive Ascent M12 helmet: there's is a dial in the back of the head strap for loosening/tightening.
This helmet is the same as the Schwinn Thrasher and the Schwinn Pulsar, but the Pulsar doesn't have a dial in the back.
Bell SpinFit bicycle computer. Buttons are a bit stiff when pressing and display sometimes has a purplish background. Reset itself after 1700 miles, and reset iratically afterwards. Possibly low battery, but the device has a low battery
icon, which never displayed. This uses 1142 battery, which is harder to find and more expensive, but available at Wally World for about $4 and Radio Shack for $7. One thing to consider (if possible) when purchasing a
computer is the type of battery it uses. Common and cheap batteries are the 2032 (about $5 for a pair at Wally World). Personally I would not recommend this computer for long touring, but okay for recreational riding. In fact, I'd only recommend this particular
computer if you got it free or if it came with your Huffy. If I had used more time to plan for the bicycle tour instead of essentially making this an impromptu tour, I would have purchased a cheap used computer from an online auction.
Soft gel saddle from Nashbar. It's actually made by Velo for Nashbar and very comfortable. During the 2400-mile bike tour, I couldn't
believe how comfortable this saddle was. Not a single day did I have a sore groin, and my butt told me first hand it was never uneasy. At some junctions, I considered riding only in regular shorts and junking the bike shorts (I ride with cycling shorts underneath regular shorts). There's
no reason Nashbar should sell any other comfort mountain bike saddle than this one, especially when it's only 20 bucks. I did have to spend the first few days adjusting it for my riding position, but I hadn't ridden
a bicycle in almost 10 years and purchased this saddle right before touring. (The comfort level may be different depending on your weight and riding position. I weighed between 145-150 lbs for the tour and leaned forward on the handlebars because the saddle is a little
higher than the handlebar on my 1991 Bridgestone MB-4.) Reviews of this saddle (I believe Nashbar or Velo updated the saddle and changed its name.)
Nashbar LDT rear rack. Under $20. Very adjustable. After adjusting one of the legs, the ball bearing fell out and the hole in the leg caught the
spring. I had to cut part of the spring since it was stretched to a point of unusability. "You get what you pay for" comes to mind.
A set of these (sold as set) will load roughly 2350 cubic inches. The interior has a slick material which makes them very water resistant, if not waterproof; however, the pannier
lids do not cover the entire top of main compartment and the seams don't appear to be watertight. Plastic buckles do not operate too well. I'll be bungee cinching a food bag and tent to the top of the rack (trunk area).
(They're not advertised as waterproof, and they're not mainly because of exterior fabric, lid, and seams.
Mt. Zefal mini double pump. This 3.5 oz pump telescopes and gets very warm while pumping. Can be used for both presta and schrader valves. Eventually, the plastic around the pivots of the thumblock lever broke. More info.
I was a little surprised to find the sidewalls were teal (off-green) on these 26X2.0 Geax Blade200. (Didn't read carefully the description when ordering). The other
thing I didn't note was how heavy these wire bead tires were, but they made the 2400 miles.
Protects tires from punctures. A set of these weighs less than an extra tube. Extremely useful for
preventing punctures, especially against those stiff sticky plants.
In case pump fails, presta to shraeder valve will allow airing tires with presta valves at gas stations.
Flexible kevlar temporary replacement spoke. Riders say to be careful not to overtighten.
$2.99 mirror by Bell at Academy.
Bell Night Shield led-bulbs tail light. Runs on 2 AAA rechargable NiMH batteries.
72-inch lock weighing just under a pound without holder.
In case cassette side spoke breaks. (Will also need to hold cassette in place to use this tool. Might be able to pull this off by using the chain on the bicycle.) Even better is
a small lightweight tool called the Hypercracker, which doesn't need an additional wrench or chainwhip to remove the lockring; however, it's no longer made, but there are at least two alternatives:
the Unior pocket cassette cracker (about $10) and the Stein mini cassette lockring tool (about $25). This
webpage explains how to shave this tool down to
make your own hypercracker if you don't want to shell out $10-25 for a commercial mini lockring tool.
For a time, I wanted to get a second-hand MB-1, maybe because it was more "prestigous," but looking back, the 1991 MB-4 frame weighs only 8 ounces more than the 1991 MB-1 (frame to frame comparison, no forks), but the MB-4 has rear
braze-ons (that probably accounts for at least 2 to 4 ounces of the 8 ounces right there) for a rear rack, and the 1991 MB-4's tubes are also lugged (some MB-4 models are not lugged). With all that steel on there, this wasn't just a bike, it was a tank. I have less interest in the MB-0 because the tubes are welded together. I've done all the maintenance on this bike ever since
I took it in once for a free tune-up within the first year of purchase. I've rebuilt the wheels on the fly (while touring). The only
problems I've had is removing the freewheel (never able to), but it's much easier to remove the cogs with two chainwhips. (If you replace the chain and your favorite cog starts to slip, just take the cogs apart and reinsert backwards.)
If you want to do maintenance on your own bicycle, try the Park Tool how-to web site.
